Hearty fare, red gingham tablecloths and chalkboard menus: my search for the perfect bouchon in Lyon

These traditional restaurants are the culinary backbone of this gastronomic capital, but finding the real deal means tackling offal - and red wine - for breakfastI first went to a bouchon as a 20-year-old Erasmus student. Id accidentally ended up spending a semester of my year abroad in the Auvergne countryside, which meant every weekend Id thumb a ride to the nearest big city - Lyon. I didnt know much about Lyon, except that it was famous for its food - in particular thehearty fare served up at...